www/gitea: Fix rc script on FreeBSD 10.x/11.0

On FreeBSD 10.x/11.0 daemon(8) doesn't have -s,-l,-t, so starting
gitea would fail. We partially revert the change from r453018 and use
the old behavior on these versions and don't log stdout/stderr to
syslog.

PR: 223283
Approved by: stb@lassitu.de (maintainer)