*/*: Replace format=bsdtar with format=ustar in tar archive operations

... because the undocumented format bsdtar adds paxheaders on
some systems, therefore breaking the fetch.

The documentation for format=bsdtar should be added:
https://bugs.freebsd.org/bugzilla/show_bug.cgi?id=277139

Approved by: portmgr (blanket unbreak)