(Per a request from koobs on irc)
Currently the only way to specify make.conf variables (other than port options which have their own mechanism) in a per-port fashion is to use conditionals on .CURDIR, which is fragile since it tends to involve assumptions about where the ports tree is mounted.
Instead, allow category_portname_VARS= to be set in make.conf to provide arbitrary assignments when building a specified port. For example one might use
```
devel_llvm10_VARS= MAKE_JOBS_NUMBER=2
```
or
```
converters_lua-iconv_VARS= TRYBROKEN=yes
```
This is intended to be consistent with the existing `category_portname_SET=` variables for port options, and uses the same syntax for values as `option_VARS=` in port makefiles, but without the case-folding behavior since that makes it impossible to handle mixed-case or lowercase variable names.
`VAR+=val` can be used to append to a variable, and `VAR@` to unset one entirely.